I Love the Smell of Beef in the Morning

As I cycled home tonight, I realised that I have changed since I came to Norway. This thought occurred to me when I noticed that I wasn't feeling incredibly sick due to physical exertion. Actually, the very fact that the notion struck me was an encouragement; normally at that stage in the journey I'd be scanning for houses of people I know that might be persuaded to run me home in the car. Or cars of people I don't know, for stealing. A year of Radical Network, involving much sitting and only time for the odd run around the park with Chris and his throbbing knees, left me in poor form.

Today however, my form is indefatigably good. Along with all the uphill cycling, I put this down to good Norwegian food. On Sunday I feasted on wild elk, on Monday and Tuesday enjoyed some delicious salmon and yesterday partook of the great and ancient food of viking kings - beef and red pepper lasagne. There is a lot more home cooking over here, from the youngest to the oldest; ten-year-old Simen often gets home from school and rustles up what I can honestly say are the best brownies I can remember tasting.

The Norse do have one secret weapon though. Produced in Arna's Toro factory are a wide variety of stocks, powders, soups and flavourings. They are not only the cook's best friend but also the reason that the area surrounding the fjord frequently smells of meat. Strolling back from the station, it's no surprise to be greeted by the potent and inescapable waft of roast beef crisps or cream of chicken soup. While it's certainly not so welcome as the fresh, Scandinavian air my lungs usually trade in these days, I remind myself of the Greenwich brewery, inhale deeply and give thanks.